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Nordy
Rockler founded Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
in 1954. Over the last half century, Nordy has
spent thousands of hours in the workshop,
building projects and perfecting his finishing
techniques. He's regarded as a finishing expert,
and has developed a number of Rockler exclusive
finishes. We recently met with Nordy to discuss
the art of finishing and some of his favorite
products.
Woodworkers
often say that finishing is the part of the
process they struggle with most. Do you share
that struggle, and why do you think that is?
Nordy: Years ago it was more of a struggle
because there wasn't a variety of good products
available. In the earliest times a person would
just use an oil pigment, wipe on stain, maybe a
coat of shellac as a sealer, and then a varnish,
which maybe took 24 hours or more to dry.
Because it was so slow to dry you'd get a lot of
dust particles settling in it. Today we have
such a multitude of products available it is
much simpler, especially once you get familiar
with the products and use the ones you like.
Finishing is the culmination of doing a project.
You can put a lot of time and money into the
material, and you can botch the whole thing with
a bad finishing job. Finishing is a critical
part of the whole project.
When
did you develop such a strong interest in
finishing?
Nordy: Well, when we started the business.
Finishes are a crucial part of doing
woodworking, so it was just sort of a natural
process that I became interested in it. Through
looking at various lines and talking to
different salespeople, I learned a lot about
finishing. I tested a lot of products, and I
still am today. To keep on top of it, you really
have to keep on trying them and testing them.
What
is the main key in getting a great finish on a
woodworking project?
Nordy: Two things. First of all, you have to be
very patient; don't rush it. And the crucial
thing is to test it on some scrap wood and make
sure you get the desired effect you really want.
Another reason for testing is you have a
schedule of finishing materials; test them all
the way through the whole process, from
beginning to end, and you will get a really good
feel for what the end result will be.
How
do you decide which finish to put on a
particular piece?
Nordy: The type of project really dictates what
type of finish you put on it. If you're building
cabinets or a bookcase, an oil-type finish is
very simple and pleasing, and very easy to
repair. I wouldn't recommend an oil finish for a
dining room table, because you need more
protection. You need something harder, more
durable, and waterproof. It all depends on what
you're building. It also has to do with personal
preference. Do you want a gloss, a semi-gloss, a
flat finish? Does the piece need a lot of
protection? Does the piece need to match another
piece in the room? There's a lot of
considerations.
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What
are the benefits of shellac and Rockler's
shellac kits?
Nordy: Shellac is a different type of material,
and not necessarily used as a top coat. It's a
multi-purpose product. It was very popular in
the 1700s, and a lot of the antiques were
finished with it because that was the only
finish available at the time. It has its
advantages. It dries very fast and gives you a
nice appearance. But it does have its drawbacks.
It is not completely water resistant, and it can
be brittle. Sometimes it's the finish you have
to use, especially for the furniture restoration
people who want to get a piece as close to the
original as possible. The pre-mixed stuff you
buy off the shelf in a hardware store has a
limited shelf life. It's usually only good for
six months after you open it up. If you buy
shellac in flake form you can mix it yourself
very easily just by mixing with denatured
alcohol in different proportions. If you want to
use it for a sealer, or wash coat, you use a
thin solution, what they call a two-pound cut
shellac. If you're using it as a top coat or
finish you want it a little thicker, you want a
four-pound cut. We came up with our new shellac
kit because we had previously been selling it by
the pound, which is a lot of shellac flake for
the average consumer. So we packaged it into a
smaller 2 oz. size, and they can make a two-,
three- or four-pound cut, whichever they want,
and it has a graduated scale on the container
showing what proportions of denatured alcohol to
shellac to use. It simplified the use of it.
We're also going to be offering it in a
half-pound container.
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On
what projects does a woodworker want to use a polyurethane
gel?
Nordy: You can use it anywhere you want a
urethane finish. Urethanes give you a hard,
durable, tough and, in most cases, waterproof
finish. A lot of people prefer the gel type for
application as opposed to the liquid type you
have to brush on. It's just a question of
personal taste.
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When
did you develop a relationship with Sam Maloof,
who is regarded as one of this country's
greatest woodworking craftsmen?
Nordy: I met Sam about 20 years ago at the
Southern California Woodworkers Association.
They had a big event. That was the first time I
met him, and I visited his home, which is really
like a museum. He's a great collector himself.
He collects Navajo rugs, and he collects
pottery. He used to trade some of his stuff for
Navajo rugs and pottery. We have a nice
relationship. Rockler packages
Sam's poly/oil finish. The mere fact Sam
Maloof still uses it gives credence to the
product.
Another
highly-regarded finishing expert is Michael
Dresdner. How did you meet him?
Nordy: I knew him because of his work. He's a
very popular writer and has written a couple of
books. I met him a few years ago at a trade
show. We sell his books and he writes articles
for Woodworker's Journal. He's a contributing
editor to our finishing department.
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WunderCote,
a water-based, wipe-on polyurethane finish, is
one of Rockler's newest products. What are the
benefits of WunderCote?
Nordy: It's so easy to use. It's in a flip-top
bottle, and you just pour it out and use a foam
rubber brush over the surface. It dries in about
20 or 30 minutes, although our label says one or
two hours. It doesn't require much sanding (with
220 grit paper) between coats, then you can
re-coat it. I've done that in half an hour after
I applied. it. What's nice about a water-based
polyurethane is it doesn't smell, it's not
carcinogenic to the user and harmful to the
environment. It dries faster, is very easy to
apply, and easy to clean up. What's different
about our finish is others tend to have a
plastic look to them when they're finished. Ours
has a slightly amber cast to it so it looks more
like a varnish finish.
Is
there anything else you'd like to add about the
finishing process?
Nordy: Like any skill or acquired labor, the
worst part is fear of doing it. Half the battle
is just trying it. There's such an abundance of
products out there that there's something for
everybody. There's just no end to products.
There should be something anybody can apply for
a very professional-looking finish.
We're
constantly on the lookout for new products that
we're testing. We try to have a real wide
selection on the internet and in our stores.
Usually in each store there's someone that
specializes in finishing, and then we have
classes at our stores. Mostly it's getting up
the nerve to try it and getting used to the
products you're using. In a lot of cases it's
fun, especially when you have a beautiful
project and you want to put the finishing touch
on it that enhances the whole project.
See Finishing
Guide.
Rockler's Finishing
Department.
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